
Tucked away in the majestic folds of the Himalayas in Northern Kashmir, the Gurez Valley is a place of serene beauty and timeless tradition. Isolated for much of the year due to heavy snowfall and harsh geography, Gurez is home to a resilient people, among whom the shepherds, locally known as Bakarwalsor Gujjars form the backbone of an ancient way of life. These nomadic and semi-nomadic pastoralists have, for centuries, followed seasonal migration patterns, braving treacherous terrains, weather extremes, and political uncertainty in their pursuit of sustenance and survival. This article explores the lives of the shepherds of Gurez, their struggles, traditions, relationship with nature and the challenges they face in a rapidly changing world.
The shepherds of Gurez are not permanent settlers. Many belong to nomadic communities that travel hundreds of kilometres with their flocks of sheep and goats in search of pasture. During the warmer months from May to September, they arrive in Gurez from the Jammu plains or Southern Kashmir, scaling steep mountain passes such as Razdan, Top with their herds. Gurez with its lush alpine meadows (margs), abundant water sources and clean air, offers an ideal grazing ground. Each year as the snow melts and the valley comes alive with wildflowers and green slopes, these pastoralists set up makeshift settlements, often in stone huts or tents made from bukhari-heated canvas. Their lives follow the rhythm of the land, waking at dawn, herding livestock to high-altitude pastures and returning at dusk, sometimes walking for hours through dense forests and rocky trails. In winter as Gurez is buried under feet of snow and becomes inaccessible, these shepherds retreat to lower altitudes where the climate is milder. This cycle of transhumance, a traditional form of migratory pastoralism is at the heart of their identity.
Sheep and goats are more than just animals for Gurez’s shepherds, they are their livelihood, wealth and status. Wool, milk, meat and ghee produced from these herds sustain not only the shepherds’ families but also supply markets in the Kashmir Valley. Wool from Gurez sheep is especially prized for its softness and is used in the making of Pherans, shawls and carpets. However, the economic returns are modest. Shepherds are caught in a difficult position, facing intermediaries who offer low prices for wool and livestock, rising costs for fodder and medicines and limited access to veterinary care. There is minimal government support or insurance for losses due to animal disease, theft or predation by wild animals, which is a constant threat in the region.
The shepherds of Gurez are known not only for their hardiness but also for their rich oral traditions, songs and folklore. Sitting around smoky fires in the evenings, elders sing ballads of love, war and longing, often in the Shina language, A Dardic Tongue spoken widely in Gurez. Their tales include old migration routes, ancient battles and mountain spirits. These stories are passed down orally, 3 preserving a unique cultural heritage deeply tied to the land. Their clothing reflects their environment, heavy woollen pherans, handmade shoes (pulhori) and thick turbans or caps protect them from the mountain cold. Tools and daily items are often handcrafted, symbolising a lifestyle that though austere, is deeply resourceful and sustainable. Women play a vital role too. Though usually confined to tents or temporary settlements during migrations, they manage households, process dairy products, weave wool and tend to young animals. Their contribution, though rarely highlighted, is essential to the survival of the pastoral economy.
Shepherds of Gurez live in close communion with nature. They understand the land, the weather and the animals in ways that few others do. They can read signs in the clouds to predict rain, recognise plants for medicine or poison and trace lost animals through snow-covered trails. But this bond with nature also exposes them to danger. Landslides, avalanches and wild animals such as bears and snow leopards are real and regular threats. In recent years, climate change has begun to alter the delicate balance. Unpredictable snowfall, shorter summers and changing vegetation patterns have made traditional grazing routes more perilous and less productive. Their once well-defined migration routes are also shrinking due to expanding tourism infrastructure, military zones and forest regulations. The tension between conservation efforts and pastoral rights is becoming more visible with some shepherds facing fines or restrictions for entering certain areas that were once open pastures. Gurez Valley lies along the Line of Control (LoC), the de facto border between India and Pakistan. This geo-strategic location subjects the people, especially nomadic shepherds who graze close to the boundary, to security restrictions and periodic tension. Shelling incidents, landmine accidents and surveillance are part of the lived reality here. For shepherds, this militarisation adds layers of complexity.
Sometimes, they must seek special permissions to move across certain routes. At other times, they are accused wrongly of aiding cross-border movements or smuggling. The constant presence of the military, though necessary for national security, often results in alienation and fear. One of the greatest challenges facing shepherd families in Gurez is access to basic services. Mobile lifestyle means that children of shepherds often miss out on formal education. While some seasonal schools have been set up, the quality remains poor and dropout rates are high. Very few children from pastoral backgrounds manage to complete higher education, limiting their options beyond traditional herding. Healthcare is similarly difficult. With remote camps located miles from the nearest road or clinic, even minor ailments can become serious. Pregnant women, injured shepherds or sick children often go untreated due to distance and inaccessibility. This lack of opportunity is pushing many young people away from herding. Increasingly, the younger generation is seeking jobs in cities or joining the Army, leaving behind a way of life that is slowly eroding.
Despite their importance in the ecological and cultural fabric of the region, the shepherds of Gurez are often overlooked in policy and public discourse. There is an urgent need for initiatives that support their way of life through access to markets, veterinary care, mobile schools and legal rights to grazing lands. Promoting sustainable eco-tourism and cultural exchange programs could also help preserve their traditions while offering new sources of income. Non-Governmental Organizations and local governments can play a crucial role by creating seasonal shelters, health camps and educational outreach tailored to their needs. The shepherds of Gurez are not just wanderers with flocks, they are stewards of an ancient relationship between people, animals and the high Himalayan landscape. Their way of life, though threatened, remains a powerful symbol of harmony with nature, resilience in adversity and the quiet dignity of those who live beyond the margins of modern civilisation. As development accelerates and the world grows more connected, it is essential not to forget the shepherds of Gurez. In preserving their heritage, we also protect the soul of the mountains.